Outdoor Sump Pump Stations are used when gravity alone won't allow the system to drain to the discharge area. A sump pump must lift the water to a higher point, to allow gravity to continue moving water away.
Couple chamber extension to chamber tee using a split coupler to achieve the chamber length specified in the job description. Fasten using zip ties.
Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill 6 holes (one on top, one on bottom, two on each side) equally spaced on the outside of the chamber. Continue these holes for every rib.
Install a single-wall end cap using a split coupler on both ends of the chamber. Drill approximately 15 holes near the bottom of each end cap using a 3/8" drill bit.
Excavate a hole approximately 30" wide, 30" deep, and the length of the chamber specified in the job description, plus 1 foot of overdig.
Encapsulate the excavation using standard 4 oz. filter fabric. Put fabric down first so that you can use the gravel to make minor adjustments to level.
Lay 4" of gravel as a base and level it using a laser level. Use gravel to set the elevation of the top of the chamber:
Dig a trench for a 4" PVC sleeve to house the power cables, which exit from the chamber riser to the outdoor outlet location specified in the job description.
Plumb system drainage pipes into the end caps of the chamber, using:
Note: No sealant required around pipe entries.
Backfill the void around the chamber with 1" clean stone, up to the top of the chamber. Ensure the top of the chamber is level.
Use a 5" hole saw to core a hole in the chamber riser. Insert a 4" SCH 40 PVC sleeve about 1.5" into the riser for power cable routing. Route this sleeve pipe to the specified outdoor outlet location, and use an elbow to extend it approximately 2" above grade.
If underground electrical cable is required from the outlet location to the house, utilize the same trench that the PVC sleeve is in if possible, and leave 3 feet of tail at the outdoor outlet location.
Place the pump at the bottom of the chamber. Center it within the riser and ensure it sits level.
Install the pump discharge pipe, plumbing it out of the riser toward the discharge trench if alignment allows. Use a PVC Union or Fernco to ensure future pump replacement is easy. Use pressure rated PVC.
Place a heater ring in the chamber, 1–1.5 feet from the pump.
Pull the power cables (pump and heater) through the power sleeve and leave about 18" of slack (tag end) above ground. If using an extension cable, apply dielectric grease, then wrap the plug in electrical tape.
Coil and secure the power cables on top of the pump using zip ties. Ensure cables don't interfere with the float switch operation.
Fasten the chamber access lid or grate.
Critical: Before backfilling, clean out ALL debris from the chamber. If there are pieces, they will clog the pump and it will fail.
Cover the top of the drainage stone with 4 oz. filter fabric.
Backfill remaining 6"–10" with soil to match the surrounding grade.
Critical: Ensure the discharge line (1.5" or 2" flexible PVC Sch 40) drains completely after the pump shuts off.
Day-light the line in a 5-foot dry creek bed for dispersal.
If failure of the system would result in water damage to the client's home, the system must be tested by filling it with a garden hose after installation.